Britain's "new type of politics" = Venezuela's Communal Councils?

Since returning home to the UK I've been thinking a lot about just how privileged we are in this country, and how we often take this for granted. Having a political system and leaders that I have confidence in is just one part of that.

I just watched a speech that Prime Minister Gordon Brown delivered to the National Council of Voluntary Organisations last week about a "new type of politics".
[full text | YouTube]

In essence this is based on the premise that we need to cut across party political boundaries and engage communities and individuals in the decision-making process. Now the government has been trying this for years with "public consultations" but they have only had limited uptake. These new proposals will give people and voluntary organisations more of an opportunity to actually engage in discussions and dialogue on policy. Policy will then be influenced by both the people it affects and the people who have the knowledge on the issue, instead of being dictated from above.

"Action by individuals, that even the words voluntarism and voluntary action no longer fully capture, are happening daily in our communities. There are 50,000 social enterprises with a combined turnover of £27 billions. Half of the population, as we know, volunteers at least once a month.

We have to reach out and connect with this new energy and enterprise and it is urgent that we do so because of the profound new challenges that I believe this country faces now and for the future cannot be solved, cannot be met by top-down solutions simply by saying, as people often did in the past, that the man in Whitehall knows best.

Climate change for example demands that we combine international action and investment with the direct personal and social responsibility and commitment of ordinary people in every community of our country."

These figures impress me! 50.000 social enterprises. Half of the population volunteering. It is clear that people want to be taking action, and now there will be a chance for that action to influence policy.

And who are these people taking action?

"It is people who are engaged in changing the world as individuals, parents, neighbours and active citizens that will be the next momentum for change."

I can certainly think of a few ways to generate those types of people!

Anyway, the basic idea is that the government has to properly engage with these people.

Then I got thinking.

I am interested in the parallels between this "new type of politics" for Britain and something like the Communal Councils that are flourishing and growing in Venezuela.

I feel like both are essentially very similar ideas: To give more power (or if not power at least a voice that is heard and engaged with) to communities and individuals in the decisions that affect them in the country.

I think the difference is that in the "Consejos Comunales" in Venezuela are actually giving decision-making power directly to the people, over things like local projects, budgets, etc. while in the UK the proposals are more about consultative engagement to drive national-level policies. So in Venezuela we're talking about the big decisions being dictated from above and just really local stuff being controlled by the masses, whereas in the UK we're actually talking about big decisions being taken with stronger engagement of the general public.

This idea feels right for the UK and in general for a system of national decision-making, but in Venezuela I just have this feeling that I don't like the idea of Communal Councils. Is this because in Venezuela they don't take things to a high enough level so won't really make any difference to the really important things?

Or is the difference that in terms of social class I think am in the majority group in the UK so would tend to agree more with the results that would come out of these structures, whereas in Venezuela I - well, my peers - did not belong to that majority and therefore I would tend to disagree with the results coming out.

Or is it because I feel like having discussions at local level in Venezuela would still be futile because there is just such a hard line between the sides that seems to render level-headed discussion impossible?

Because after all - in the words of Gordon Brown - the following is what needs to happen in the UK (I think also in Venezuela - but is it possible there?):

"Faced with the common challenges that we face together it is the wrong time for continuing to treat citizens simply as members of contending groups as if there was no scope for common ground, the wrong time for perpetuating the sterile divisions and archaic battles for territory that dominated the ideologies of an ever more distant past. Instead this is the right time to discover what we have in common, to cooperate across party lines, to work together with patriotic purpose to do what is right in the British interest, to move from that common ground to the higher ground of each doing what we can do together to advance our countries and our country's best interests and ideals.

It is a politics of consensus because our progressive ambitions for Britain will only be met in the mainstream centre ground where all the talents and energies of the country can be prepared to come together."

As I said, we shouldn't take for granted the privilege that we have in this country where these kinds of things are possible and I really believe will work.

Thoughts on this anyone?

"Explosive end to Latin posting"

Well, we always knew the taxi story was newsworthy and now it's been officially covered by my local paper, the East Lothian Courier.

"STUDENT leader Daniel Cunningham survived an explosive end to a 13-month dream posting in Venezuela when the taxi he was travelling in suddenly ignited." (more...)

Of course this was the part of the story they'd focus on, but they do certainly get plus points for "world's largest student organisation", "helps develop leadership skills in young people", "learning experience", "dealing confidently in Spanish with business executives" and "the potential to make a difference to people's lives". That's AIESEC folks!

Of course all that is a bit redundant when they miss out one of the Es in AIESEC. Still, let's hope some other Haddingtonions are inspired by the story and make the link when they see the recruitment campaign as they return to / start university!

US perception of Venezuela

I got a good insight into the perception towards Chavez and Venezuela in the United States watching The Daily Show yesterday. Or perhaps an insight to the big problem with the US media.

There was an interview with a US American who has just released a book about Hugo Chavez.

It seems there is a huge amount of ignorance due to the tendency to really just jump for the quick, easy, simplified and dramatised story. That story is of a slightly rebellious but not-to-be-taken-seriously South American leader with a "big personality" who is doing a great deal of good for the poor in Venezuela, but with the sole bad point that he likes to irritate the US with random unfounded insults.

There doesn't seem to be any willingness to go beyond those cliches, and it really seemed Jon Stewart just wanted those to be reinforced rather than letting the author really explain anything deeper. The author looked quite unsatisfied as I'm sure he had a bigger story to tell.

Yes, it's only The Daily Show and it is there for comedy, but would it do any harm to at least reveal something insightful and that people haven't already had implanted into their minds?

Is this typical of the media coverage of Venezuela even in the "serious" media here?

I'm sure the book paints a more rounded and complete picture, but what proportion of Americans are going to read it? I would certainly be interested in reading it - especially if it goes beyond the simplified cliches of crazy South American socialist leader trying to save the poor and bring down the US.

Because it's certainly not that simple in Venezuela. I think it is questionable to many Venezuelans whether what Chavez is doing is really going to help the people and advance the country in the long-term.
Because that is really what is important.

-

I've been very much enjoying the American attitude to service and the efficiency of everything around here - two things that are quite contrasting with the way things often are in Venezuela.

So something that really irritated me the other day was while queuing in Oakland airport - with only maybe ten people in the line - this woman behind me started complaining about how busy the airport was now, and how some airports in the US were now "like a third-world country" with their lines. I just thought, no, this isn't like a third-world country. Maybe you should try visiting one.

And, I don't know, I only have the experience of Venezuela, but really Caracas airport was pretty modern, clean and efficient. The thing about Venezuela is only a part of it is "like a third world country", the rest is really much like the US (except with slightly more inconvenient airport taxes). I guess many developing countries are like that now (that's why they're called developing and not simply undeveloped). Of course some are not. But certainly queueing in Oakland airport is nothing like the hellish 6-hour wait I once had at the bus terminal in Caracas, with stifling heat, constant shouting and just too too many people crammed together. If that's what she meant by "like a third-world country", then I think some perspective is needed.

If only everyone spent a year living in a completely different country from their own.

Dan and AIESEC. The story.

I'm just about to leave Venezuela. But what was my path in getting here?

Well, in my own words compiled from genuine blog posts over the last 2 years...

Feb 18, 2005 - It all began with an internship (in California)

"YES! Drew and I were on an AIESEC conference call last night to discuss the program of events in the Bay Area. [Get Golden in Yosemite was the best]. So we're doing it. It's going to happen in April. And it's going to be awesome. Really awesome. We're going to invite AIESECers from all over the States - this will be a national event."

Sep 23, 2005 - My first Information Session (in Edinburgh)

"So hopefully will get past the screening process and allowed to join in on all the fun! I hope I can play my part in developing the LC and being part of the AIESEC experience."

Nov 25, 2005 - My first ever conference

"Just back from an thoroughly fun AIESEC conference in Belfast.

The vision is that by giving people the opportunity to work abroad, people understand more about different cultures and turn into lovely well-rounded individuals with all the neccessary skills for today's global marketplace.

Yes, it's quite idealistic but I think it is a great concept and you get to meet loads of people, develop professional skills and learn about all sorts of different cultures.

There was also a great deal of dancing (AIESEC has a thing about dancing)"

Feb 12, 2006 - Leadership Development Seminar

"They were a fantastic 4 days. 4 days of intense AIESEC experience. Motivation, emotion, learning, meeting new people and voting in the new national committee.

I am going to raise a traineeship. And change one person's life. And in turn, even in just a small way, the lives of everyone they know and meet. That is what makes AIESEC worth doing. That is why I am doing it and love it.

But I really think I want more than that. All this needs thought. A few days for things to settle in. So we'll leave it at that for now."

Mar 30, 2006 - I wanted more

"Still no idea what I'm doing next year - got lots of international AIESEC positions to take a look at."

Jun 5, 2006 - And I'm on an MC!

"So, what's next? Well, as Declan is constantly keen to put it, "they've shipped me off to a charity". Yes, I'm off to work for AIESEC for a year. After several applications to different countries (many of them possibly a bit last minute) I finally spent a good amount of time on one of them, got some amazing references together and got the job of MCVP External Relations in AIESEC Venezuela.

The job will be excellent - leading an entire country's AIESEC presence within the national team - big national accounts, organising events, managing strategies for marketing, branding, alumni relations, etc. The country looks absolutely stunning. Yes, it's a bit politically and economically unstable (it's ok, I excel at staying out of trouble!) but it will be such an incredible cultural experience, such a difference from here.

It will be challenging, it is a bit scary and I'm still not quite sure what to expect but I am sure it will be a fun and very experience-filled year!

You've sometimes just got to jump into these things, and this is the time for it!"

---

I quite like that line in the last post "it's ok, I excel at staying out of trouble!" - I think I did actually know what to expect in Venezuela :-)

And were the rest of my expectations met?

• big national accounts - Yep!
• organising events - Too many!
• managing strategies for marketing, branding, alumni relations - some
• country looks absolutely stunning - Absolutely. More than words can say!
• politically and economically unstable - Oh yes :-)
• incredible cultural experience - certainly, and very difficult at times
• such a difference from here - In so many ways I'm just a bit scared of going back now
• challenging - Extremely
• scary - Petrifying at times
• fun - Lots of
• experience-filled - More than I EVER could have imagined

So - sad to be leaving amazing people, friends, projects, things-not-done behind...

... but overall extremely happy with the whole experience and very excited about seeing lots of old friends and moving on to the next phase of my life!

Thanks so so much to all the special people who were part of this incredible year!

P.S. Join me in El Leon on Tuesday at 8pm to arrange your next trip to Europe, and mine to Venezuela, and help me say "goodbye for now" to Venezuela!

Angel Falls Top 2

And of course Steve brought his flag...

Angel Falls conquered

Strong currents and bloody freezing under the falls

Thanks Lina for the great photos!

Going home(s)

San Francisco

Well after over one year in Caracas - a city of chaos and music, traffic and street food, marches and protests, poverty and excess, hard times and great times, and meeting so many amazing inspiring people - I am making the long journey home to the UK.

It feels very strange. A big part of me wants to stay but a big part of me wants to go. Life is about change, and it is time for change again. I'm ready to embrace it!

In order to make the most of air miles and various cheap flights (and to see lots of people), my meandering journey home looks like this:

Tuesday 14 August
Leaving party / Risho's birthday party / Packing party in Caracas

Wednesday 15 August - Caracas to Mexico City to Miami
One night in Miami!

Thursday 16 August - Miami to LA to Oakland
Five days & nights in San Francisco!

Tuesday 21 August - Oakland to LA to Las Vegas
One night in Las Vegas!

Wednesday 22 August - Las Vegas to London
Two nights in London!

Friday 24 August - London to Edinburgh
...and to Haddington where I look forward most of all to relaxing at home with my family who I really do miss lots

That's almost 30 hours on planes spread between 8 flights in a single week. If anything, there should be lots of free mediocre-quality in-flight lunches at silly times of day.

The idea of this quite epic and ridiculous journey is to see as many people as possible.

In San Francisco, there's already quite a reunion planned featuring my good friend Declan, two excellent friends from California who never quite made it to visit me in Venezuela - Helen and Laura, the legendry sea-god Aaron (first person I ever met in AIESEC), Karthik and Tina from the current generation of AIESEC San Jose and various other people who I knew from my year in the Bay Area.

Needless to say I'm excited about being with all these folks in this other city where I also spent a great - in a very different way - year of my life.

All sorts of goodness is being planned - yummy eateries, dreaming about silly expensive champagne in Bubble lounge, some kind of paintballing adventure, and BBQing at the (cold) beach. If you can get to the Bay Area for any of that (especially the meal on Saturday 18th) I would love to see you there!

Equally I'm looking for people to see and things to do in London and I'm looking forward to kicking up Edinburgh during the final days of festival time.

Mark your calendars!

A fuego lento

In Venezuela almost anything passes for a taxi.

It was a very bad decision to get into this one.

Drew and I felt we needed to make a slightly comical video to document what happened, then I added a slideshow of my year in Venezuela.



Here is the sequence of events:

1. We cram 6 people into the worst-looking vehicle in Caracas (me, Drew and Steve from Scotland, Risho from Slovakia and Branko from Maracaibo / Serbia).

2. The very dodgily wired-up radio starts to make strange crackling sounds and generally fail

3. The driver pulls off the freeway as the car begins to fill with smoke

4. We discover that none of the doors except the drivers can be opened from the inside

This is the fucking scary I'm moments from death moment.

5. Steve (in the front) manages to open his door and him and Branko escape, Drew climbs out the window and the driver opens my door to start putting the fire under his seat in front of me out.

6. Risho and I push past him as he's taking his t-shirt off to put out the fire.

All this time there's a fucking police man standing across the road by his car talking on his mobile phone to his girlfriend or something. Risho and I shout that the car's on fire and we need help. He doesn't seem at all concerned. Then the taxi driver - quite nastily burned by now - runs over to get his help.

But by now the car is fully on fire and it's too late. We stay and watch as liquid burning oil drips under the car, the windows shatter and the gas tank explodes. All minutes after we'd escaped.

It is extremely sobering to realise just how easy it is to die.

As you can see, I was very happy to be alive!

And from now on, I'm checking the doors of EVERY car I even think about getting in. And I am only using taxis built in the last ten years.

What an end to Steve and Drew's trip, and my year in Venezuela.

Gran Sabana and Angel Falls

Steve, Drew and Lina (Drew's girlfriend from Sweden) just left yesterday after two very eventful and mostly enjoyable weeks touring around Venezuela.

After almost two days of general chaos in Caracas, it was Friday morning and we were stuck getting eaten by mozzies and waiting for Lina's bag to possibly be delivered by American airlines. The rest of us were all packed for a long holiday beach weekend, complete with mosquito nets that had been bought by Steve and Drew amongst much amusement and confusion in a small shop in the biggest mall in South America.

Canaima Lagoon (photo by Arnoldo)

It was now getting a bit late in the day for the beach, so we decided
- heck with it lets just go for the best first. What's on the cover of
Lonely Planet? Canaima and Angel Falls. OK.

Malaria Pills with lunch, quick internet research, some Spanish phone calls, a few black market international currency exchanges and by 9pm we're on an executive bus direct to the Gran Sabana!

The journey was great. After the bus we caught a TINY plane - just 6 seats. Apparently though the instruments don't work above the clouds and a back-up silver briefcase needs to be brought out to scare tourists :-) That was fun.

Then spectacular views of table mountains, waterfalls, planes, palms, forest and small thatched native settlements as we landed in the inaccessible town of Canaima, from where we were led by a native indian up river in a bumpy wooden canoe along with a misfit group of tourists from Norway, Denmark, Sweden, USA, Germany and the Netherlands.

Steve by this time was in full sun and mosquito protection mode with several layers of sunblock and quite a percentage of DEET in his blood. Drew wasn't as successful having put his possibly illegal 80% DEET insect repellant in a blue plastic bag. This subsequently turned most of Drew into something looking like he should be in a Vegas show.

We enjoyed barbequed chicken and slept in hammocks on an inland in the forest, with all sorts of animal sounds around us and a really useful praying mantis that couldn't seem to catch anything.

Angel Falls from Isla Raton

We got a great view of the falls as the early morning sun beamed onto the table mountain. Roughly like the photo, but in real life :-)

After crossing the river, we hiked through the forest to Angel Falls, looking out for giant spiders and "24-hour ants" on the way. The spiders trap and eat birds and if one of those ants gets you you'll have about 24-hours to live. Disappointingly we saw neither of those things!

I was somehow expecting a nice neat stream of water landing in a calm pool at the bottom where we could lie in looking up at the falls.

Well, after about 900m of falling (about the height of the biggest mountains in Scotland (Munros), or two Empire State buildings - in one go) the water is pretty much just mist! It's a very mesmerising sight.

We did swim in the plunge pool a bit further down, which is freezing cold and very very turbulent. Refreshing to say the least.

Sapo Falls (photo by One Off Man Mental)

Day 3 we enjoyed getting soaked walking under Sapo Falls - another huge waterfall at Canaima Lagoon. Wet season (Mar-Sep) is the time to go! We encountered a bright yellow and black frog (very poisonous) then we climbed up to the top. We sat on rocks in the river for a good long time just admiring the stunning scene before us - a beautiful lake - luscious green savannah as far as the eye could see - native huts dotted around in the foreground and huge table mountains in the background.

This was one of the most tranquil, beautiful scenes I have ever seen in my life. I genuinely could have stayed there for hours just relaxing in the sun with this incredible vista before me.

This region of the Venezuela has to be one of the most spectacular sights on this beautiful planet.

If you are in Venezuela and you have not been, make it happen!

Vicious packs of dogs

Sadie running

Went exploring today. There is this mysterious path off the road near where I live that leads up into the hills.

Risho and I went up it today taking a few random paths to end up at "the top" where there was a big dirt road leading to an electricity pylon. Exciting stuff. There was also a nice view of the other side of La Vega, one of the larger barrios in the hills of Caracas. People must walk as much as we did up those steep hills every day to go home! It must be unbearable when it's raining.

Anyway, we figured the road must lead to another road and eventually back to Caracas. Hah! What fools. The road did lead to another dirt road but that just led to another pylon. What the heck's the point in that? A nice dirt road plenty wide enough for a big truck and just leading between two pylons. Absolutely no connection to other roads of any form.

The only logical conclusion is they airlifted in a truck to use the road to travel a few hundred yards between two pylons. Sounds like an appropriate level of inefficiency for Venezuela :-)

So - and this will start to sound familiar to some people - it was now about half an hour before sunset and we were atop a hill in a forest.

We decided to stumble down this very steep and overgrown path that went from pylon to pylon in the hope it would lead back to civilisation.

Instead it led to a snake. A real live snake, about one foot long and deviously camouflaged. Not very threatening so we went on.

After lots more stumbling through plants and getting scratched I happened upon a dog. It had some friends. A bloody huge pack of them, barking a lot and looking like they wanted very much to bite us.

But this was the only way down. So - armed with a big stick I'd been using on the scrubs - I ran full belt at the pack of wild dogs shouting and screaming.

Luckily they moved. They were all talk.

It turns out they were living with a guy up there. Weird.

So after several minutes of shouting, running, and with dogs at our heels we were safe and it was only a few more minutes back to Caracas and "normality".

We had a well-deserved beer and now am cooking dinner and preparing to watch something exciting on TV. Except there's a really annoying and loud kids karaoke party going on in the garden. Was OK for dancing in the shower but now is just annoying.

Oh, and that dog in the picture is nothing to do with the pack of wild dogs. She's a nice one :-)

Going home plans are coming together. They're either:

- home via some days in Miami and San Francisco
- home via Cuba

These are the only two places where I can get free airmiles flights to the UK and are cheap to fly to from Venezuela.

One sounds quite fun and interesting, but I think there's plenty of scope for adventures in Venezuela and Colombia and I really would love to be back in San Francisco for a few days.

What do you think - Dan in Cuba? Is that a good idea?

Consequences

I think this from Caracas Chronicles is a very well informed post that I wanted to highlight:

Katy says: As we read the news on the student protests and watch the government's heavy-handed approach to dispersing the crowds, we are reminded of the wave of protests in 2001 and 2002 that culminated in the Carmonazo.

So now is as good a time as any to ask: where is all this leading? Do we have any hope that Chavez will allow RCTV back on the air? The government's repression will surely be bad news for Chavez and his tarnished image overseas, but after almost universal condemnation for the closure, is there anything else to gain in that regard?

...

Almost everyone who is protesting is doing peacefully, but there is always an element that takes things too far and I think it can sometimes be easy to let things spiral out of control. Of course there are people on both sides who want this.

I hope that everyone takes their responsibility to really think about why they are doing things, what the objective is and what the likely consequences are.

Hehe, I'm watching TVes right now and it seems they've replaced the crappy telenovelas (soaps) of RCTV with equally crappy ones of their own. With equal amounts of laughable sexual innuendo :-)

Student protests in Caracas

Student protests in Caracas

Well, TVes started up pretty quickly and appears to be mainly a whole load of song and dance. Reminds me a lot of the Edinburgh festival Venezuela show a couple years ago, only worse.

Today business was back to normal (I went to a meeting) but there were mass student protests at all the universities in Caracas. One of my friends got hit by a tear gas bomb that the police fired into the students at UNIMET, one of the private universities. This didn't deter her though, as she continued on the the protests in the center of town at Chacaito.

This was near where at about 5pm tonight Risho and I were walking past the Ministry of Infrastructure and suddenly everyone was running and taking cover. Then we saw a whole load of police closing the road in front of the ministry. We quickly got into the metro.

Later on the news I saw that police were using more tear gas on protesters in this area and firing shotguns into the air. It's strange to see all this stuff in the places I always go - the university, the main business district.

But it's definitely commendable to be protesting this. This is a bad bad turning point in the country's history and I hope the protests go on, peacefully. Caracas Chronicles notes that even the other private TV stations only had their licenses renewed for 5 years, ending conveniently six-months before the next election time. Imagine an entirely state-controlled broadcast TV network using government funds to broadcast their campaign to the masses, with no opposition broadcasting to challenge them. That is a very scary thought.

One really appalling thing about this whole situation is the behaviour of two of the other private TV stations - Televen and Venevision. They have not shown a single moment of these protests or this story. It is as if everything is completely normal for them. This is clearly to appease the government and keep their licenses.

Globovision meanwhile have been showing full support. Many newspaper cartoons depict it as next in the line for will of Chavez to crash down upon.

It's uncertain whether the universities will be open tomorrow.

TVes is here

Well, RCTV just switched off. The signal went black. Now we have a spinning TVes logo and the description says "will provide 24-hour programming". Evidentally not this hour.

Outside: fireworks vs. pots and pans

On the streets of Caracas

I'm quite glad I'm back home now. I just had a little walk around my locality to see what was going on. I wish I'd had my camera, but words will have to do:

First, I came across a group of red-clothed Chavez-supporters about to embark upon a march to celebrate the new TV channel "TVes". Against a backdrop of graffiti painted on walls in the barrio "With the revolution: TVes 2 - making the socialism of the 21st century", I met a group of three interesting-looking characters. They turned out to be from Germany, United States and Colombia, here to support the Bolivarian socialist revolution. They were from an international society called "Intellectuals and artists in defence of humanity". James Cockcroft, an Californian in his 50s with eyes hidden behind black round-rimmed sunglasses, had this message:

"Defendemos la vida
la naturaleza
y el planeta.
Solidarizandonos con los procesos revoluciones de Venezuela y otros paises del mundo"

which means:

"We defend life, nature and the planet. We are showing solidarity with the revolutionary processes of Venezuela and other countries around the world"

Blimey.

He asked if I wanted to join him in the march. I politely refused and moved on.

After passing a play park covered in Chavez slogans and with big murals of the man himself, I heard noise in the distance.

Someone passed me wearing a bullet-proof vest.

2 worried-looking policemen shifted their weight from foot to foot.

Round the next corner was a flood of red. Celebratory music blaring out from trucks painted red with slogans like "a socialist fatherland or death". Here they were, marching through an opposition neighbourhood, every second car a police car.

From the windows, a hundred pots and pans clattering in protest to the march. Security tight as the bravest people stand behind guarded building gates with their pots. One street-seller quietly tapping a spoon against his table as the sea of red floods by.

I overtake it and jump on a bus to the HQ of RCTV, the TV channel at the center of this messy situation.

A group of about 20 heavily armed policemen (shotguns, machine guns, rifles, bullet-proof vests and helmets) signals that I am in the right place.

There are probably only a thousand people here, at the atmosphere is quite sombre, with the occasional celebratory cheer as supporters listen to live broadcast. A huge Venezuelan flag dominates the top of the building. People are selling flags, buttons, T-shirts, food, drinks, ice cream (some things are always the same in Venezuela!) The side of the building is painted with graffiti in support of RCTV - "100% committed to Venezuela", "Don't close it", "In my heart lives RCTV" and painted hands (symbolic of even Chavez-supporters being in support of the channel).

I speak to one woman - Lourdes Bustamente - standing with a sign saying "Yo crecí con RCTV" (I grew up with RCTV). She was born the year after RCTV began broadcasting. She tells me of when she was at university, coming home every evening to watch the channel. She tells me what she likes about RCTV and what it means for Venezuelans:

"All the programs are beautiful, with no violence, very happy. The channel is a tradition, bringing knowledge and culture to the people."

I ask if the channel has changed over the years.

It took a position against all governments, but none of them tried to close it. This is an injustice. It's like a member of my family dying.

Next I talk to Abinadab Gomez Diaz, a Colombian living in Venezuela. He tells me he isn't on either side, but:

"I have confidence in God. He will decide if the channel closes. Chavez wants a war. It starts at midnight tonight."

Then the crowd is suddenly fleeing.

I run too.

Apparently Chavistas - who had been marching past launching fireworks - had tried to get in through the police blockades. A gun goes off behind me. I turn to see a police man with a smoking shotgun. Fuck.

But it was either a warning shot or a mistake. I talk to the police commander on the scene. She tells me:

"It's very calm. We are protecting all the streets. There have been no incidents and that's because of our presence. I'm not worried and tonight there will be more police here."

I think that's what she has to say.

Time for me to get out of here.

Now I'm watching Globovision and the police at the Television Commission are spraying crowds (and the TV camera) with a huge watergun. A policemen just got taken away on a stretcher.

I'm staying inside for a while.

Day of Protests

Day of Protests

It reminds me of pre-election time last December.

This time the protests are against the forced closing by Chavez of Venezuela's most popular public TV station, RCTV, which is being taken off the air on midnight Sunday.

10pm tonight I was in Altamira - a square right in the middle of Caracas - amidst crowds of flag-waving protesters, flyers lining the ground and cars - with their alarms blaring - blocking all traffic through the square.

What really surprised me was that I didn't see any police. I think they are just accepting that the protests are happening and staying out of the way.

I picked up one flyer advertising a "gran cacerolazo" tomorrow evening at 8pm. This means everyone get their biggest casserole dishes and make as much noise as possible with them, along with car alarms, horns, sirens, everything.

Tomorrow the protests are going to be centred around the National Telecommunications Commission where the government - under the guard of the armed forces - will be seizing control of RCTV's transmitters in order to switch over to TVen, the new state-controlled channel.

It's scary, tragic and illegal.

El Universal (English version) has loads of news and background about this story.

Students close university over protest over civil liberties

Students close UCAB

It was strangely quiet when I arrived at University Catolica Andres Bello this morning, where the AIESEC office is based in Caracas.

And this is why. Earlier this morning, masses of students had blocked all the entrances to the university in a protest against the closure of private TV station RCTV which is planned for this Sunday 27th May.

RCTV - Venezuela's oldest TV channel at 53 years on the air - plays an important role for many Venezuelans in providing a variety of programming including news and commentry. One thing they also provide is very vocal opposition to Chavez and his government, and they publicly promoted the coup attempt in 2002.

And now, in another move in the continuing destruction of civil rights in Venezuela, the government is refusing to renew the channel's license to broadcast on terrestrial television.

Apparently this is because of continued legal infractions. But the real reason is no secret. Chavez is in charge and he gets to decide what goes on TV. So the channel will be replaced by a new state-run TV channel, and one valuable platform for open debate against Chavez is gone forever.

Press and student bodies have united to protest against the closure, with protests this week in Caracas both for and against the closure.

Several international bodies have voiced their opposition to the closure as a breach of civil liberties and freedom of expression.

The European Parliament have approved a resolution that calls on Chavez:

"to ensure equal treatment under the law for all media, whether privately or publicly owned and irrespective of all political or ideological considerations" and "Calls for a dialogue between the Venezuelan Government and the country's private media, while deploring the government's total unwillingness to engage in dialogue in general, notably in the case of RCTV;"

The Inter-American Court on Human Rights has filed a law suit against the Venezuelan government for "violating the human rights, freedom of expression, and personal safety" of the RCTV workers and journalists.

The US Senate Foreign Relations Committee has approved a motion expressing "profound concern" at the situation.

Today, the national guard were deployed [Spanish] to ensure the protests remained peaceful.

There will be more protests tomorrow and Sunday.

I am kind of tempted to see what is going on but I think this could turn quite nasty.

Well, as freedom of expression is washed away, there were dramatic thunderstorms and torrential rain in Caracas this afternoon. But it has temporarily abided so I'm off to get in supplies.

More updates on this interesting and desperate situation tomorrow...

Buses and travels and things

I’m just back from training new members in Barquisimeto, one of the cities where AIESEC is in Venezuela. This is a local committee in the great but unfortunate situation that most of its experienced members seem be suddenly going off on traineeships. What’s left is like a clean slate of new members. Members who are so full of ideas and enthusiasm and who are doing some really great things. Working with these members reminds me in one sense what it’s all about – providing the platform to allow people to make of it what they want. I took two members to their first sales meeting today. I remember my own – the nervousness, the not being quite sure what to say, relaxing during the meeting as I realise the company loves the idea of AIESEC then leaving with that awesome feeling of having done a great job and being part of something really real and valuable and useful to companies.

Barquisimeto is a city of over one million people, about 6 hours West of Caracas (“because of the queue” – people in Venezuela are obsessed with traffic queues, I guess because they are so popular!) This places it in the Center-West of Venezuela, meaning it’s much warmer than Caracas but nowhere near as crazy hot as Maracaibo (so I hear). Definitely not suit-wearing temperatures though. So I didn’t.

Compared to Caracas, the city is really calm (OK, anywhere in the world would be) and very spread out with very short buildings. This is because it is on the San Andreas fault (yey – back on it after 2 years!) although apparently they only have minor earthquakes that nobody feels. The city has a total of 210 works of construction at this very moment – hence construction is the industry for AIESEC to be hitting, and every street corner has workers and blocked roads – making bus routes very random.

Buses are very distinctive in Venezuela. The small ones (carritos) have colourful, dramatic paint jobs and are normally adorned with decorations and trinkets and slogans inside and out (often religious or political). With pumping Regaeton music blasting out from the tinted windows. And probably a street seller or two trying to grab everyone’s attention as they sit squeezed into their seats-not-designed-for-Dan. And bus-stops don’t mean anything – you just wave one down when you like and shout, whistle or somehow gain the drivers attention when you feel like the music is too much for you. Great stuff for just 15p! It’s one of the highlights of cultural experience in Venezuela!

The long-distance buses are something else altogether. Even the cheapest has very reclining chairs, air-conditioning and TVs. Cheap like $4 for a 6-hour journey. For only slightly-more you can have “executive-class” which is pretty much like travelling first class on a plane. Of course looking outside is banned, and curtains are strictly provided at all seats. A movie lulls you to sleep as you speed through the countryside of Venezuela oblivious to all. Maybe the best way for really long journeys. But that countryside can be quite spectacular and definitely should not be missed! Again, there is the occasional person making his money – someone just offered me a cachapa, which is like a thick corn-flour pancake, normally with queso blanco (white cheese).

A continual barrage of being offered things you only might just want seems to be the model of the economy for many people in Venezuela. But there are times when you do want, and if you enjoy making last minute decisions as I often do it works very well.

Ooh, great - we’re stopping for food. What timing! Writing about cachapas was making me hungry. I’ll tell you what delight I eat once I return…

…mmm, I had an arepa filled with sausages, onion and mayo. It was as delicious as I’d hoped, although nothing will ever beat the one I had on the way to Mérida in December.

Now it’s freezing on this bus so I’ve wrapped up warm and I’m going to spend my final 34 minutes of battery listening to Snow Patrol and preparing a proposal for tomorrow.

Bye!

Dan

Addition: The bus took 7 hours!!!! Which meant a fun fun fun night sleeping at the bus terminal for me, being awoken by floor-cleaning people and security-type people at horrible times in the morning.

That life-consuming thing that I love

First, let's apologise for the rather sporadic nature of posting. Definitely a case of having way too much going on.

Henceforth to sum up the last two months!

-

AXLDS in Mexico. My first international AIESEC conference - 20 countries worth of passionate, amazing people filling a room with spirit and excitement and working together towards the same goals.

The global village on the first day was an unbelievable whirlwind of culture, of strange foods, of joyous peanut butter, of Mariachi bands and gleeful dancing locals. Utter amazement at being part of such an incredible spectacle in the stunningly beautiful city of Guanajuato.

Working with leadership teams from around the Americas (and Spain) and realising that we share so many of the same challenges and problems, and also there are just incredible solutions out there. The power of sharing is incredible. The feeling of connecting and working together - something beautiful and magical. Seeing the impact AIESEC is making on people, on society.

Talking to all the US delegates who had heard the buzz of Get Golden. Roll calls at 5am in elevators. Sleep as a mere illusion of the mind. Making incredible friendships. Meeting people for the first time in real life. Being inspired.

And Mexico! Spicy food. Running up pyramids with ominous clouds set to explode upon us. The Pacific Ocean. Tequila. Long bus journeys. Strange things boiling away in big pots. Chasing muggers through the metro station. Churros and Starbucks.

Needless to say, I came back with 9 other people all filled with boundless enthusiasm, dedication and a determination to take the needed action.

My part in that has been to get damn serious about building the relationships that we need. And there are some great things very far into the pipeline now. I am not leaving AIESEC Venezuela without its sustainability.

-

Next up was our national conference. I had the huge responsibility of being the chair of this event. Bringing everything together, setting the mood, the tone, the spirit. Being in charge of conference magic was how I put it. This was very enjoyable, and at times hugely challenging. I think I did a reasonable job of it. The sugarcubes were certainly overflowing :-) (little messages people write to each other at the end of conferences. yes it's all a bit fluffy)

This conference was a success, but I cannot take credit for that. It is because of the members - something amazing has happened to them. They're AIESECers! I think as an MC we have actually shifted something, created something. And that makes me so incredibly happy!

-

Right now I'm in Barquisimeto where it is a little bit too hot but nevertheless we are forming the ultimate ER team. Tomorrow we're hitting two companies, Tuesday two more. With "new" members so full of ideas and hungry for knowledge and ready to get the results. I love it. Training in Spanish is awesome :-)

Today I ate Chinese, some incredibly Guanabana jelly, and a delicious Kebab-type thing with falafel and meat. And I drank lots and lots of water, for the two most common reasons.

You will notice that AIESEC has now completely consumed my life, but I don't care. I haven't got long left. Which is extremely sad and very exciting at the same time.

Me and my Guinness

Me and my Guinness

I had a Guinness.

I enjoyed it VERY much.

After 8 months without real beer and after saving this since Christmas it was a great reward for getting some good results for AIESEC, and for it being St Patrick's Day of course.

MEXICO TOMORROW!!!!!!!!!!! :-D

The wonderful world of Dan

Miss World 2005, Me, Miss World 2006

I think this is the first time this has happened.

I’m sitting in my flat at a lost end for what to do.

I think the problem is the internet has turned off, so all access to media, work and those so-important time-wasting activities is cut off.

So, time for an update from the wonderful world of Dan.

In December I received a brilliant Christmas present – a can of Guinness Draft from a visiting AIESECer from Ireland. I thought about enjoying it at the time, but wanted to wait for a special occasion. So I said to myself: right, I am only allowed to drink this once I sign a major sponsorship deal for AIESEC Venezuela.

It turns out these things take time. It came very close with getting partners for our national conference, but in the end one deal fell through and others only resulted in product donations or participation without sponsorship. Good, but not good enough.

But now the Guinness has been liberated! A fantastic organisation called CEVEDES, part of the World Business Council for Sustainable Development are running a project with AIESEC and sponsoring one member of our national team to go to our regional conference in Mexico. Finally, the great meter of ER income has some blue ink on it (signifying income from sources other than exchange). The Guinness can be consumed.

Of course given the date it has to wait - just a little bit longer - for St Patrick’s Day is just around the corner.

In other news, I’m feeling very patriotic at the moment after setting foot on British soil for the first time in 7 months. The Embassy was almost I had hoped for – with the BBC humming away in the background, British newspapers and a nice donation of educational materials and really cool British flag badges that everyone wants. I was surprised not to be offered a cup of tea though. That situation has got desperate, with only 7 bags of Tetley and 2 of Assam remaining.

Back to my slightly confused national identity, after watching The Last King of Scotland (very good, Babel was too) I decided to use one of my national identities more to my advantage. It works! I managed to save a ridiculous $70 they were asking us for to get into a quite fancy club in San Ignacio, just by saying I was from Scotland and this was my first time in Venezuela.

It’s really shocking that people are paying more to get into a club than families just a few hundred metres away are earning to live on for about a week. Every now and then something like this highlights to me the huge division that exists in Venezuela.

But back to good stuff - I brought the good word of Dan’s pancakes to Caracas a couple weeks ago, enjoyed by all – including some trees in our garden. Got a bit of a pancake addiction now. They’re so versatile!

Oh, and yesterday, at an event launching Accion Solidaria’s HIV/AIDS awareness campaign, I met two Miss Venezuelas!

Almost all my objectives in Venezuela are complete!

Hopefully the next update will be from Mexico...

What is important

Friendship. Family. Knowing in your heart what you want to do and having the courage to do it.

These are the important things in life.

I know that some people will be sceptical, but I have just watched probably the best, most powerful and moving hour of television I’ve ever seen. The OC has come to an end, and it could not have been a more perfect ending.

Please don’t stop reading. This post is not about the OC. It is about what it means.

Yes, the show wasn’t entirely serious much of the time, but the main themes running through the entire story I think really demonstrate what is truly important in life.

Firstly, that when pairs of people come together through friendship, even more so if these people are very different, they help each other. They support each other in times of crisis. They transform each other. They allow and enable each other to develop into the people they can be.

Secondly, family is so important – helping each other, supporting each other, communicating and just being there for each other. And family is defined as this type of relationship - not in any way determined by genetics - but by the feeling of being a unit, knowing each other and knowing that you will do what it takes to help each other.

And finally, the importance of really discovering what your passion is in life, and doing what it takes, using the support of family and friends, to get there.

This is what the OC was about. The support we have around us. Going through the amazing journey of life with the people around us. Filling in the gaps that the people around us need to have filled and how this allows us to reach that balance, that point in life where things work out the way they should.

Pancake Partying

This Friday we will be celebrating the grand British tradition of making pancakes* for Carnival!

If you are intrigued, please reply here:

http://www.evite.com/app/publicUrl/daniel.cunningham@gmail.com/pancakes

See you for pancake-making history this Friday!

*Actually, crepes. They're better.

6 months in

All the usual stuff, can't believe it, time flies, etc.

But the question is: what have I achieved in this time?

Well...

2 "lost" cellphones
1 accidental kidnapping
1 day lost in a forest
1 fight in a bar
4 seasons of Alias
3 seasons of Arrested Development
2 bizarre tropical illnesses
3 incidents of sunburn
3 visits to the cinema :-(
3 of our "weekly" flat meals together
4 trips up El Avila
5 trips to the beach
1 amazing beach trip organised for one of the weekends i was ill
23 international tables
2 friends cancelling visits here
42 meetings with companies

So, in general quite a lot of new and exciting experiences and not quite enough of some of the things I took for granted before.

And what have I seen? Some really interesting things about Venezuelan culture:

1. It is not possible for a Venezuelan to speak without waving their hands around
2. There are strict laws to ensure nobody is ever more than 10m from music and/or radio
3. If an intersection is empty, it is mandatory to try and block it, especially if there are any emergency vehicles trying to get through
4. People love to practice their English, thwarting my Spanish grocery-buying skills
5. If in doubt, always add more sauce
6. If still in doubt, turn the music up a bit
7. If STILL in doubt, add a bit more rum
8. Every meal MUST contain a plantain
9. Handshaking is a complex art
10. Yes, there is another form you need to fill in

Apart from all that, or because of it, this has been a pretty amazing experience so far. Learning to live in a different culture is at times a remarkable journey of discovery, and at other times quite an isolating and scary experience. Learning to communicate in a different language is rewarding but very challenging. I think I have come very far in that though, especially in the last couple months. Speaking is just about confidence, but understanding conversation in groups is still very difficult and frustrating. It was quite enlightening that a Colombian girl arrived a couple weeks ago and even she can't understand half of what the Venezuelans are saying!

I'm definitely experiencing a different way of living, whether that's good or bad I'm not sure. Character building, that's it. I think what I've learned is it's possible to live absolutely anyway as long as you have the right attitude (and good people around you). Being positive, finding the things you like and learning to accept the things you don't. And having an adventurous spirit.

Of course I've made some great friends, even some who aren't in AIESEC! I've learned about different cultures, about leading, managing and motivating people, about dealing with dilemnas and conflict, about the complexities and contradictions of politics and society in a developing region of the world.

But mostly I've learned about myself. What is important to me, who I am as a person, my strengths and weaknesses. I think this is one of the most important aspects of the experience.

So I look forward with optimism and excitement to the next 7 months. I just hope this guy in charge doesn't do anything too crazy in that time.

P.S. Various Christmas shenanigans here.

Chavez has won

Just announced.

Chavez 61%
Rosales 38%

Fireworks deafening at the moment, people cheering from the hills.

Update: This is based on a 78% count of the vote.

We just watched the report in Spanish on Globovision (CNN), then in English on BBC World, then in German on DW-TV. I find it interesting that the BBC correspondant said "Chavez would be wise to sit down with the opposition" to work with them. I don´t think that´s how it works here. Chavez has at least 6 more years now. His Socialist Revolution continues...

Quiet streets on election day

Election day: quiet streets

Wait, what's that thing where all the cars usually are??? Oh, a road?!?!

This street just near Plaza Venezuela is normally totally grid-locked. I read yesterday that the average speed of traffic in Caracas is just 11km/h - a comfortable jogging pace.

But with voter turnout expected to be very, very high in what could be a tight election, the streets of Caracas were uncharacteristically void of cars today.

Now safely back in my flat having enjoyed a fantastic lunch of arepas and preparing to settle down in front of the TV and wait for the result. In a few hours, we will know if Chavez gets the chance to complete his socialist revolution or Rosales has managed to successfully unite the opposition.

Guardia Nacional

The Guardia Nacional are overseeing all the voting centres

Guards looked down on the Chavez-supporting crowds at the voting station just below Mamera's barrios.

Mamera is one of the prettier barrios, with all the houses painted very colourfully and a community centre just outside the metro with modern basketball courts.

There was a big mural up on the hillside saying "Good Job Chavez". And I really think he has done a good job here.

A very different Caracas Metro

Two things that are very different today

After checking out our local voting station this morning, which seemed pretty safe, Andreas and I had decided we couldn't resist taking advantage of the one-day only free metro.

We embarked upon a journey to see what was going on around Caracas on election day, promising Mario that we'd be back by 2pm.

Long long queues

Average waiting time: about 4 hours

This was my local voting station. Apparently some people had been waiting since 2am for the polls to open. Most had been waiting since 5 or 6am to cast their vote. People were prepared, with seats, newspapers and umbrellas to shade them from the intermittant sunny / rainy weather. Ice cream sellers and other street vendors were taking advantage of the crowd.

One outburst occurred at the front of the queue when some Chavistas arrived on motorbikes, waving red flags and generally trying to cause a disturbance. The crowd, the vast majority of which were opposition voters, reacted strongly shouting "A Fuera! A Fuera!" (Get Out!) and throwing bottles.

The military just looked on, pretty indifferent to what was going on. I think they understood that the people would sort out this disturbance themselves.

Nobody was hurt and it only lasted a few minutes. I think most voting stations are like this, dominated by voters from one side or the other.

A sleepless night

Saturday nights are normally not much good for sleep. The people in the Barrios surrounding the area where I live have taken to blasting out ridiculously loud music over the neighbourhood until about 6am.

But this weekend was of course worse, with the loud music added to by honking horns and processions of Chavez supporters parading the streets chanting "Chavez is not going". And what sounded like gun fire, but I'm sure was just fireworks, going on all night. Well, I'm not sure.

So after not much sleep, it was time to witness what must surely be one of the most important elections in Latin America.

Venezuela Elections - The Day Before

There was an eerie silence in Caracas yesterday. As I waited for a bus to work, I noticed that the streets were uncannily empty. The few students at University found many of their lecturers hadn't even turned up. This slightly tense atmosphere was interrupted only by the ocassional firework in support of one candidate or the other.

Many people have left Caracas or were spending the day with their families, concerned about possible reactions to the election result.

The campaigning is over now. People are waiting. Tomorrow, between 5.30am and 4.00pm around 16 million people will have their say. Do they want Chavez to stay or to go?

Current polls vary widely, some indicating an almost 60/40 split in favour of either of the candidates, and some indicating only a few percentage points between them. The general feeling I get is that Chavez will stay in power, fuelled by the masses of people in the lower social classes who have benefitted from hand-outs and social programs.

But Rosales's supporters - over a million of whom were marching in Caracas last weekend - are optimistic. They believe now is the time for change, and they believe they will win or at least come very close.

Venezuela is using an electronic voting system. The system prints out a receipt of your vote, which you check and then deposit in a box for auditing. Around 53% of these boxes - selected at random - will be audited to ensure the electronic result and the paper ballots match up. If there is more than a slight discrepancy, all the paper votes will be counted.

Opposition supporters have a deep distrust for this system. Many people I have spoken to are planning to gather outside the polling booths to demand that the box with their vote is audited. They are going to "defend their vote".

Officially, both candidates have declared that they believe the system is fair, accurate and transparent. Chavez a few days ago appeared on television to say that he will accept whatever the result is. If he loses, he has promised to transition promptly to the winner, even in advance of the February date marking the start of the new 6-year term.

But will the people also accept and respect the result of the election?

Tomorrow we will see.

Chavez's Bolivarian Revolution. Good or bad?

I think this quote (from this BBC survey) sums up one of the strongest objections to Chavez's government:

"I am a single mother of 3 with a food shop in Caracas. The government has just opened a Mercal store close to me with subsidised prices at 50% of what I can sell. My business will soon be finished. I am one of millions of poorer Venezuelans that are facing lower income and unemployment. Does the government planto employ 25m people? Why don't they understand they can best help us by allowing our businesses to do well? Most of us do want work and do well and provide for our families."

Andreina, Caracas, Venezuela

Contrary to what I wrote a few days ago, extreme poverty has decreased over the last 3 years. I don't think you can argue against social programs that provide access to free healthcare and education.

People really love Chavez because he is helping them at this moment, he has established a rapor with the people, and his talk of a real revolution in South America is inspiring.

But while food hand-outs and subsidies gain him popularity, in reality these are hurting businesses and not sustainable. As soon as oil prices come down, surely these will stop and then where will that leave the people who rely on them?

Two main groups are being hurt by Chavez's politics:

1. Venezuelan Businesses
   
   I read a report in a Caracas business magazine that said Venezuela is the 15th most difficult country in the world to start a business. The other 14 mostly being countries currently experiencing war. Ridiculous amounts of beaurocracy, lack of financing and economic uncertainly all make this difficult.
   
   And once you are up and running, there are further obstacles such as obscure property and unemployment laws, as well as the lack of educated professionals due to emmigration.
   
   
2. The Middle Classes
   
   The poor are getting hand-outs. The very rich are benefiting from oil income. But those in the middle are suffering. High inflation, restrictions on property ownership and lack of jobs are just some of the escalating problems. 19,000 employees of state oil firm PDVSA were sacked in 2003 for opposing the government and cannot now get jobs due to government blacklists.
   

Yes, giving more people access to basic education could be a way to lead to a stronger economy in the long-term, but what's the point if you are segregating those who are in a position to generate economic growth? (and I mean real economic growth not just increased oil prices)

Rosales, describing himself as a Social Democrat, promises to govern for people of all social classes. But as far as I can see doesn't have a clear set of policies or the charisma or vision of Chavez.

So which side has amassed more supporters: Chavez's Bolivarian revolution, with all the idealism and populism it encompasses? Or the more moderate politics of Rosales that to me seem to make more sense for a strong sustainable economy that takes into account all people in Venezuela and treats the nation as a whole instead of dividing it?

Venezuela Elections 2006

Chavez Supporters

4 days to go.

Things are getting quite tense.

This Sunday, 3rd December 2006 (or 3D as locals are calling it), the national presidential elections of Venezuela will take place.

Manuel Rosales, backed by a coalition of opposition parties, is standing against current President Hugo Chavez.

Chavez's 5-year term has been one of contraversy - especially from an external viewpoint. His vocal opposition to the United States and rash comments about certain world leaders have made him political enemies. But he has strong ties across much of South America, and with countries such as Cuba and Iran.

He is a populist leader, with socialist and even communist parties standing behind him in Venezuela. Across South America, he has been leading a "socialist revolution", offering financial assistance to his allies and working to get them into positions of political power.

In Venezuela, he is leading a so-called "Bolivarian revolution", supposedly reminiscent of revolutions of the 1800s such as Simon Bolivar who gained the Bolivarian countries - Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador - their freedom. The main manifestation of this seems to be Metro trains full of ridiculous posters of silly-looking people in colonial clothes.

Under his leadership, the benefit from inflated oil prices is supposedly going back to the people ("Ahora es de todos" - now is for all). And it does seem to be true to some extent. Over the last few years, infrastructure has been improved in Venezuela, and Social Initiatives (Misiones) are being run to help those in poverty and to stimulate education (apparently literacy is now 100%). The true success and value of these depends very much on who you talk to.

But the economy is a mess. Unemployment is high, forcing people to take on casual labour. Children are having to leave school to work. Extreme poverty is still increasing. Mixed enterprises and obscure laws are hindering the stability and growth of companies.

The majority of people I have spoken to (OK, mostly middle class students and business people) are opposed to Chavez because of what he is doing to the economy. They do not see a sustainable future for Venezuela under his leadership.

Manuel Rosales' slogan "Atrevete a Cambiar" roughly means "Dare to Change". He promises to build a Venezuela where everyone will benefit - not just those in poverty. He promises change.

But whether this will happen I don't know.

Chavez is giving a lot of people what they want. He is giving them hope. He is investing money now in those who need it most, which to those people seems great. But the question is, can it last? Well, the other question is, is it really helping?

One thing is without question: whichever way this election goes, there are going to be a large number of severely angry people. Political opinion is extremely polarised in Venezuela, and people are willing to fight for what they believe in.

From Rosales's side, there is talk of "defending your vote" and from Chavez's side of "not leaving without blood being shed".

This is rather scary.

A number of emergency laws are going to be in effect this weekend:

1. No alcohol may be purchased after 12 noon Saturday. Bars and clubs will be closed.
   
2. Any gathering in groups outside is forbidden.
   
3. The army have been given the order to kill should any trouble occur.
   

This is also rather scary.

The German embassy phoned my flat a few weeks ago to tell us to have 2-3 weeks of supplies (including water) stocked away as we might not be able to go to the shops. This week, they have set up an Emergency Centre at one of the Universities.

So, as I said, things are getting quite tense.

It's certainly an exciting time to be in Venezuela.

In my flat, we're planning to have a nice day watching all the excitement unfold on TV maybe with a few beers, surrounded by our boxes of emergency supplies. One things is for sure, I will be staying off the streets until everything is clear.

Let's just hope democracy is served and people trust in it and accept whatever the outcome without resorting to violence.

Look out for some more updates over the weekend...

A little too much adventure

October 14th 2006. 30 miles West of Caracas.

The road to Choroni

After one bus journey shut off from the world and forced to watch the cheesiest teenage chick-flick ever created (What a Girl Wants) and a second bus journey careering over about 2000ft of mountain on winding roads clearly not designed for a bus – but accompanied by a group of locals all to eager to share their 5 bottles of white rum with us – Andreas and I arrived at Choroni, a small colonial town a few hours west of Caracas.

This was a recon mission. The plan was to check out the nearby jungle in preparation for a 3-day hike two weeks afterwards.

It turned out to be a whole world of adventure that we weren’t at all prepared for.

Just add music

After dire warnings of dangerous snakes from locals and a steep trek through banana plantations and the long way up the side of a very steep mountain – especially with big packs and sweltering heat – we arrived at the top. On the way we’d seen all the abundance of insects and butterflies this country has to offer, but none of those monkeys we’d been promised.

We had about 3 hours before dark to head down the other side to find the town of Chuao, and its beach - supposedly one of the most beautiful and tranquil in Venezuela. Easy. There we planned to sit back with a couple beers and enjoy our accomplishment.

This never happened.

When Lonely Planet suggests “take a local guide” it really is a bit of advice worth listening too.

By about half an hour before sunset (which is 6 o’clock sharp) we were literally running down the mountain, stumbling through dry river beds and fighting our way through dense jungle. There was no sign of Chuao. We hadn’t seen a single person for about 3 hours – the last one being a local merrily hiking up the mountain path at an incredible rate considering his bare footedness.

The worst camp site ever
stumbled upon by man

The occasional tantalising glimpse through the trees still showed a mountain between us and the sea. It seemed almost futile. Then we lost the path. We were in an utterly horrible banana plantation. This was the stuff of nightmares. Waterlogged and full of horrible stinging plants that grasped at your ankles, and who knows what kind of terrible spiders and snakes. But it was getting dark now. We were tired, wet and desperate. We had no choice. We would have to camp here in this green hell.

Modern technology

It started with some comedy as we settled down in the tent to eat our pasta. Lack of forks meant we were using the covers of our mobile phones. But quickly paranoia started to set in. The more we talked about our situation, the more our fears escalated. Where were we? What should we do tomorrow? Where would we get more water? How would we find the path again? We came up with three options:

1. Chance it, just heading north – either straight through the jungle or along the dry river bed – until we find the beach (we had a compass at least)


2. Find our way back to the path and try and find a wrong turn that we surely must have taken


3. Head all the way back over the mountain, but with very little water.

None of them seemed like very good options. We were scared.

Somehow we got some sleep, and in the morning we managed to muster up some optimism and decided to attempt option 1 first of all. But it turned out we were trapped between two converging rivers, with thick thick jungle blocking our way. After one hour of “off-roading” it, we were back at our hellish camp site.

Back up the mountain. We now had just about 1.5L of slightly dubious water that we’d found in a tap near the plantation. It was very hot. It was very steep. We had a long way to go before we found our goal – the crazy old man living up there with some chickens, a pig, and a very strange grasp of the art of speech – but most importantly a fresh water tap.

We were desperately thirsty when one more moment of panic came upon us. We’d discovered a fork in the path that we hadn’t seen yesterday. Which way was it? If we took the wrong one where would we end up and where would we find water? Then Andreas spotted some banana trees in the distance. The old man had had banana trees. We headed that way, but it felt wrong.

Why hadn’t we take that guide that Lonely Planet had suggested? Why hadn’t we take more water from that tap? What had we got ourselves into?

A chicken!

Agua

We were there! The old man’s abode. There it was – fresh water gushing from the tap and glistening in the sun. We rushed towards it. We drank. I can hardly describe how good it felt. We were OK.

After some lunch and a long break, the rest was easy. Back over the mountain, a swim in the lovely cool river and to Choroni beach for such a well-deserved beer and some freshly fried fish.

I don’t think we would have been ready for a 3-day hike. I think we will listen to Lonely Planet in the future.

But what an adventure!

The Quest for Beer

Spot all the key elements of an authentic British pub!

My German exchange student flat mate (Andreas) and I have decided we've had enough of Polar. Fine, it's great on a hot day to have an ice cold easy drinking lager, but we need some variety! They are all rather bland and tasteless (in our sophisticated European opinions of course :-))

To be fair, of the several different varities, Solera Verde does have something vaguely resembling a taste, but drinking nothing else is starting to get a bit boring

We need some real beer!!!

Where can we get some in Venezuela??

A supermarket?
Oh, Polar is very cheap. Isn't that nice?

A cervezeria (beer store!)?
Oh, Polar is very cheap. And you have lots of it.

A "British" pub?
Surely the not-at-all-tackily-named "Greenwich" (just near Altamire) must have a a few good ales on tap. Well, I was very excited when I heard about this place. Walked in, all looks very British, a bit dark, lots of wood, seats at the bar. "Una cerveza britanica por favor" I say, unable to contain a big smile at the thought of what might be in store for me The bar man takes out two cans. Polar Ice. Polar Light. Not even pints! Cans! And nothing resembling decent beer! Nothing at all on tap. The quest continues...

Colonia Tovar - a German colony town
Ah yes! They must have German beer. I imagine it's brimming with good stuff and everyone's having a great time. Well, Andreas went to investigate, with hopes of bringing back a few bottles. Turns out no, all they have in the whole town is a beer they brew themselves, which remarkably resembles all those other Venezuelan beers.

So we are stuck.

I think the problem is partly economic. Polar is the biggest Venezuelan company. Their beer is ridiculously cheap. I imagine this undercuts any competitor, and certainly anything imported from afar.

So can YOU help us? Do you know of a supermarket / shop / bar / restaurant / locality / person on the street / secret society who can provide us with some kind of interesting beer?

We want the finest beers available to humanity, and we want them here, and we want them now!

(hope I haven't offended any Venezuelans with any negative talk of their national beer. Feel free to leave comments!)

Update: I got a lead today, met a British person (first time since arriving here!) while walking up (all the way up!) El Avila. He works at a British school here in Caracas. Must find this place. They might know something.

The quest continues...

The Sea! It Really Exists!

Wandering

Finally, I made it to the beach!

Exactly 48 days after arriving in Venezuela.

And what a beach it was! Set on a small island a few minutes from the coast, with the beautiful water gently rippling against the coral sand (which usefully doesn't retain heat in that nasty way classic sand does) and palm trees sheltering our little camp site.

This was Chichiriviche, about five hours by bus(es) from Caracas.

Ten of us were there for a weekend that involved a lot of sun, some frisbee, some tuna sandwiches, a lot of rum, some sangria, some beer, using the frisbee as a floating beer/rum holder, followed by some more rum - inevitibly leading to those Spanish drinking games I love so much now - then waking up at 6am to see the sun rise and go snorkeling.

Apart from an extremely luxurious bus that Antje and I happened upon for the journey there (after missing everyone else by sleeping in until 5am), the bus journeys were very typically Latin American. Mad rushes to get on a crowded bus for a bumpy ride. And occasionally accompanied on the bus by these people - who spring up from nowhere whenever the traffic hints at slowing down - selling drinks, ice cream, chocolate, snacks and sometimes the most unexplainable items like pot plants and kites. Very neccessary for a long journey I am sure!

Anyway, all this traveling was well worth it for this fantastic beach. My faith in Venezuelan beaches is fully restored.

¡¡Quiero más!!

A strange experiment

A strange experiment in Caracas

A strange experiment is being performed on the people of Caracas.

On the Caracas metro, all normal rules of politeness, etiquette and decency basically break down. There is one thing on everyone's mind: get into the train. Whatever it takes. This normally means as soon as those doors slide open, the poor people trying to get out are suddenly faced by a human wall heaving their way in. Old people, children and people with long hair seem to be at particular peril in this situation. And the end result is some kind of human jigsaw crammed into every square inch of the train, rendering the possibility of getting out at your stop seamingly impossible, and resulting in some very intimate situations with strangers (some of whom like mobile phones rather too much).

So in their infinite wisdom, the Caracas metro authorities have installed a brand spanking new system of yellow lines *and* arrows at the busiest station. The gist behind this is to coordinate the masses into entering the train in an orderly fashion, like the civilised human beings we are.

Unfortunately this means resisting the temptation to skip the queue as you wind your way just past the door when about half way through the queue.

This temptation is just too much for some, and I've seen mixed results. Even with the careful positioning of uniformed attendants to "help" people queue properly. From my observations, there seems to be three types of reaction to the system:

1. Feigning ignorance and getting on the train the old way, skipping that big mass of queue-respecting individuals.

2. Trying to use it properly (and with pride?) and looking very scornfully at the type 1 people who don't obey those yellow lines.

3. Blatantly abusing the system by making a dash through the passageway where people have exited and leaping onto the train at the last section as the door closes.

All in all, there is a lot of hilarity involved in the whole affair. There's something about the ridiculous situation of having so many people on a train that just makes people smile :-)

I do think the number of type 2 people is increasing. I think there is a glimmer of hope. I have confidence in the people!

A day off?!?

Faces

After an absolutely fantastic weekend with all our External Relations members (and some from People who were just pretending), the MC had an actual day off work! I think this is the second time something like this has happened, so we didn't quite know what to expect.

Turns out it was a lot of fun (and some pain, and some rain). There we were only shortly after the agreed upon time of 11am (early for the day after a mini-conference) all met up succesfully and ready to hit the Avila, but from a different angle this time.

El Avila National Park is a huge mountain range right at the edge of Caracas, with the highest peak being 2765m (just over 9000ft). There are three ways up the range - walk, get the teleferico (cable car - and not the telefreako!), or get a Jeep to drive you up. So clearly that's the option I wanted to go for! Turns out it wasn't an actual Jeep which disappointed me a bit. I was considering bringing spasti so it's lucky I didn't. He would have been heartbroken.

So after a fun-filled trip with 8 of us piled into the back of some Toyota SUV type thing (no seatbelts, don't be silly), we found ourselves amongst the clouds in Galipan, a small village which was settled about 200 years ago from the Canary Islands. They sell jam and pork sandwiches there. Seperately that is, the jam in jars and the pork in sandwiches.

There we had a nice picnic, took some very AIESECey photos and witnessed a chance meeting of two seemingly opposing gangs of dogs. Then we hiked the rest of the way up El Avila (2135m), only to be told at the top that we still needed to pay the cable car price to get into Avila Magica. What a rip off. No happy world of haribo for them.

So down we wandered again, catching some good views of Caracas and the Carribean sea (I think it was there anyway). And we decided it would be fun to walk the whole way down. Which at first was nice - some views, interesting plants, local inhabitants playing bowls or wheelbarrowing their puppy around.

But then we heard the thunder.

Then came the rain. Lots of it.

So we probably descended that last 1000m or something (Caracas is at about 700m I think) in torrential rain, with several varying degrees of preparedness ranging from Richard and his techno-coloured (but apparently not too effective) jacket to Anita's pretty impracticle wool jumper.

But sharing the last Haribo between three people whilst soaking wet in some kind of cloud forest is what life's all about really, isn't it? Well, I think some people disagreed.

But all in all, it was a fun time. And sitting down with Luis (house number 8, sorry!) back at Bellas Artes in the noise and chaos of the city I had about the best beer I've had in a long time.

So was feeling refreshed and ready to jump back into work this morning, and of course totally unable to walk. UCAB was positively buzzing now that the holiday month is over, and with the watermelon juice back :-)

Life is good. This weekend, dare I say it, the beach!

P.S. Liz, that bird is called the Querrequerres. Yet to see any red howler monkeys, three-toed sloths, armadillos or anteaters or tapirs though.

Aji picante

OK everyone don't worry. There is real milk - well, either skimmed or full fat, but real. Although I accidentally bought Chichero the other day instead which is like really thick, sweet milk. Weird. But kind of helped bring sanity back to my mouth after the insance stir fry I made (Dec & Thom, this trumped anything the Spottiswoode flat saw. We couldn't even finish it). Note to self: the reasonably big chili peppers with the black seeds are actually insanely hot.

And I got my phone back! It was in someone's car. So I've only had one thing stolen :-)

Crazy mall

Sambil Mall

Sambil Mall in Caracas is about the craziest, most-crowded mall I've ever seen. (actually South America's largest shopping mall). Not very nice, but they do have a Sony store where I've been trying to negociate in Spanish to get a laptop case. I don't think they have them.

Also, this is where I bought phone #2 (after having the first one stolen on the metro). Unbelievelably, this one went mysteriously missing about 2 days after I bought it! So frustrating!

Other updates. The mosquitoes really let loose since that last post. I think they must have got me about 100 times now. Have upped the DEET percentage to hopefully fend them off.

And there is real milk! So that's good.

On Monday I had two meetings. One the guy wasn't in the city, maybe a bit of a communication problem there, but I did pick up a Daily Journal (English language newspaper) so was so nice to read the news! The other meeting was excellent though, really really good. Fantastic to be getting into the swing of things with the job.

Yesterday, the 5th (of 6) member of our MC team arrived, RIchard, from Slovakia, via a year in Ecuador, and on his 32nd birthday. We went to TGI Friday's which is very, very expensive but all the staff did a huge song and dance with drums and everything. So well worth it! Richard is convinced porridge is a Slovakian invention and not Scottish, but apart from that I look forward to working with him.

Just been talking to Laura about her visit here. Very excited about it. People visiting means I have a good excuse to actually go out and see this amazing country!

Time to brave the rain and go get pizza and cerveza now.

6 beds, 25 bites, 2 "robberies"

Caracas

7th August, 2006

Mosquito Bite Count: 25
Robbery Count: 2
Kidnapping Count: 0
Bed Count: 6

Well, the mosquitoes are easing off a bit now. Caracas is about 800m (or maybe ft) above sea level so I imagine that keeps them away a bit.

The first robbery actually might have happened before I arrived. I left duty free in Edinburgh with a nice bottle of aftershave and arrived in Caracas without. Nothing terribly dramatic then, just some opportunistic baggage handlers. The second robbery was on my first trip on the Metro. It gets stupidly busy at peak times (as do the roads), as in you have to wait for about 4 trains until you can squeeze yourself on. So amidst that chaos on Monday morning, my phone was nabbed from my pocket. Just after I'd got the SIM unblocked and bought an international phone card. Grrr.

So far I seem to have almost slept in a different bed every night. But it is quite interesting seeing how different people live here. There is such a diversity of cultures, and then they're all mixed up so every home is completely different - in style, customs, food (apparently "tengo hambre" - I'm hungry - is something I say far too much).

Bed 1. Jorge's house. Set in the lovely Los Naranjos (Orange Trees) neighbourhood of Caracas, set slightly away from the madness. Jorge is an AIESEC alumni who lives with his parents and is moving to London in December. Where I first experienced Latin American Idol and enjoyed Arepas, Scrambled Eggs and Maltin (very malty non-alcoholic beer) for breakfast.

Bed 2. Rita's house. Rita loves reggaton and gets the communitica to work every day to listen to it. She was on last year's national team and lives with her mum and sister. Her mum speaks only a strange Portuguese-style Spanish, which resulted in me almost getting a cup of tea when I was going to brush my teeth. Big fans of china and other strange ornaments. Breakfast was fried ham and cheese toasties, and coffee.

Bed 3. My apartment. Italian MC member Nino was here for a while, but left on Friday after imparting much wisdom on me and bidding farewell to his many "chicas". Now it's just me, Mario, Leonardo and at least one big bitch of a cockroach. Mario is an AIESEC alumni who has hosted just about everyone involved with AIESEC for the last 10 years. He works for a bank and doesn't like it when people leave vegetables in bags in the fridge. Leo is his brother who watches the TV from about 12 inches away and mostly just walks about in boxer shorts. Neither of them speak English much which is great for me!! Food so far has been quite a bit of espresso, some carbonara and some kind of stange but tasty shellfish. Also I went to the supermarket the other day (big mistake at the start of the month when everyone's been paid!) and got a massive hunk of swordfish for about 2 quid.

Biggest culture shock so far. They have no real milk!!!! Everyone just uses condensed powdered milk, which tastes like custard, or UHT 1% milk which tastes like water. I suppose I will have to get used to that.

Bed 4. Francisco's house. Since I only got my own keys when Nino left on Friday, I got locked out of my apartment a couple times. Frank is the national president of AIESEC in Venezuela. Frank hates Reggaton. He likes to listen to happy pop music in his car to distract himself from the deadlocked traffic of Caracas in the mornings.

Bed 5. Religous santuary at Los Teques (?) Last weekend was spent at the conference in a very nice venue which was actually some kind of religious sanctuary. But not in a totally over the top way. Just quite peaceful with a few inspirational messages on the walls. Nice to be out of the madness of the city!

Bed 6. The very, very nice and big apartment of Damelis, an AIESEC member in Valencia who really, really likes to go out dancing.

This weekend Francisco and me went to Valencia to facilitate a local planning day for the committee in Valencia, which is about 2 hours West of Caracas. Again, reasonably peaceful compared to Caracas. The best bit on the journey there was a robotic roadwork man signalling the traffic. The planning went well, except for the crap Nescafe coffee being the only thing available. We are planning a big event there in October so it was exciting to talk with the team about that, and I'll be back there next weekend for more preparations. After all that, and a fantastic "Perro Caliente" (Hot Dog) - on which one should put absolutely as much toppings and sauces as will physically fit, and then more - it was time to party. Some very good mojitoes were had in a pirate-themed Ronateria (rum bar) then to a club where we danced all night (or in some cases, tried to) to techno, pop, salsa, merrengue and reggaton. Then a late-night Spanish lesson over a dubious cup of tea involving powdered "milk".

The next morning breakfast was hot chocolate and tapanadas (or something?) which are like pastries with ham and cheese. Then I learned all about all the varieties of Arepas that can be made, with regional variations in size, shape, corn/wheat flour, hard/soft and just about any filling you can think of. I think I need to make a list of foods I need to try. Man, I really do only think about one thing. My only complaint about the food is that the meat is always too salty. Everything seems to be oversalted. Maybe some reason to do with preserving it in the heat? But I'm sure that's not very healthy. Still, maybe the fresh passion fruit (Parjeta) juice made up for that today. Let's hope so.

What else? El Avila on Monday was spectacular. Went to the Opera this evening. Which was free!! And in an extremely pleasant, attractive and modern opera theatre paid for by the ministry of culture. Honestly I'm not quite sure why so many people are opposed to the government. So far I've met either people who are totally against the government ("they're destroying Venezuela, there are no jobs, etc.") or just a bit apathetic about it because there is no really good alternative. Of course there's propaganda everywhere. Lovely posters of people together smiling because of some government initiative (like a free opera house, or educating the people in the barrios, or the excellent metro service) and the slogan "Ahora es de todos" (Now is for everyone). Well, maybe the propaganda is getting to me.

Although officially our term began on August 1st (yay!!!) we're having a transition and planning week this week when Risho and Mario - the two Ecuadorians - arrive. Planning is going to be at the beach, for team-building reasons of course :-) Going to be another very busy week.

Thanks for reading. Night night!

First Week in Caracas

AIESEC Venezuela

Yes, I know I promised I would blog regularly. I have been extremely busy for what seems like every moment since I arrived here in Caracas! And I feel this is only a taste of things to come. I am just back from my first AIESEC conference in Venezuela, my first conference as a facilitator and my first as national committee member, oh, and my first in Spanish! This was our annual planning conference, so all the elected and last year's local leadership teams were there. The main aim was to form a national set of goals and actions we will achieve this year, based on the global focus areas defined at an international level, as well as national focus areas we have decided upon. It is all very exciting and I really feel engaged with AIESEC in Venezuela now. I'm so happy to have been able to attend this conference, be involved with the planning and get to know everybody. I've met most of the people I am going to be working with over the coming year, and there is a real sense of excitement and drive to succeed. But we have a lot of work ahead of us! And I've begun my education in salsa, etc. dancing. Again, a lot of work ahead of me!

Obviously, it was quite challenging facilitating at a conference that was mainly conducted in Spanish! The level of English varies drastically amongst the members here (I think this is the same across Latin America), even in those in leadership positions, so some translation was required, and some jokes were definitely lost in translation! It seems pretty much every word can be used in either: a) an offensive way, or b) a romantic way, or c) a sexual way. Drinking games in Spanish was definitely quite an experience, one that involved me getting quite drunk. But apparently once in that state I speak "perfect Spanish". But I do really feel I am getting to grips with it, and have had success communicating basic things in Spanish. A minor mistake in stress seems to render a word completely intelligible though, which is a bit tricky. But being immersed in this Spanish conference, it really feels like it is going to happen, I am going to learn Spanish.

It continually surprises me how many things just work differently here. Every house has bars on the windows and doors. You do not go out at night (unless in a car, although the safety of that is also dubious in my mind). There are dogs and cats just roaming the streets (I came accross a tiny kitten just sitting on the sidewalk the other day, was so tempted to take it home).

The communiticas (small local buses) drive about stopping wherever people want and blaring out local Regatton music (like a kind of explicit version of Reggae that can only be danced to in one way!) Red lights mean nothing (and only women need to take a driving test). People don't use liquid soap to wash dishes. The list goes on and on! It's all these small things that really surprise me!

But a lot of things are the same, or at least, American. I've been to McDonalds twice. People love baseball. The university where our AIESEC office is has a food court with a Subway and a Wendys. Latin American Idol is watched by everybody, and something silly like 300 million people across the continent, who rush home in their big old or new American cars. One thing that was pointed out to me on the communitica to the conference was that all the people living in the barrios (the really poor, deprived, crime-ridden neighbourhoods on the hills surrounding Caracas) have satellite dishes on their otherwise most basic of chaotically arranged dwellings. Apparently that is because it is too dangerous to go out at night so they need TV.

And there are cellphone shops interspersed amongst the dusty chaos.

The food. Disregarding the US (not allowed to call them American!) chains, the local food is, well, different. Breakfast is always hot. Either Arepas, which are stodgy muffin type things, filled with cheese, ham, whatever you want, or fried bread usually with cheese and ham (and sometimes marmalade, at least by my local flatmate Mario). All very healthy I am sure. Arepas again for dinner! Or something vaguely Mexican-looking and yummy. And always followed by fruit. The fruit is incredible. Huge papayas (like 10 times bigger than the ones you get in the UK), unbelievably sweet melons, several types of bananas, there is so much! Every morning I go down the road to get orange juice squeezed there and then in front of my eyes. And crushed watermelon smoothies are so refreshing in this heat.

It can get hot. I think it is only around 30C at the most, but in the sun that is very hot, and when it is humid it is quite uncomfortable. Luckily we have air conditioning in the office. The rain is crazy though. It just switches on randomly and comes down in huge globules then flows down the streets into big storm drains. Then it just cuts out and the sun comes out.

Just like Hawaii, tropical rain.

Somehow I managed to survive the first three days without encountering a mosquito. This was clearly some kind of mean ploy to lure me into a false sense of security. They are here. They do like me. Two types of spray and some kind of anti-mosquito air-freshener lookalike seem to hold them off quite effectively though. I can't see a single one in my room tonight, with the window wide open and the light on. Maybe it depends on the weather.

My apartment. I am living with Mario, a Venezuelan AIESEC alumnus, his (slightly crazy I think) brother Leonardo, and, until he leaves on Thursday, Nino, one of last year's national team from Sicily. It was Nino who taught me how to make Arepas, and also has been trying his very best to make sure I don't get mugged. During one year, he has been mugged twice. And he probably doesn't stand out quite as much as me. But I am certainly heeding this warning, the furthest I've gone on my own is the bus stop about 4 blocks away. Everyone is looking after me just now!! At least until I get to know which areas are safe. Nino also didn't know any Spanish when he arrived and is now fluent, so "that is great" (as he says about everything). The place itself is quite spacious with two living rooms and quite a big room for me. Not bad for $60 a month. No, I didn't miss out a 0 there.

It is about 10 times cheaper than Edinburgh. But of course things will only seem cheap while I still have British (well, American) money. Beer for about 40p a bottle in bars. Buses are about 12p to go anywhere, complete with music! To fill a tank of gas costs roughly $2. For the entire tank! That's because 80% of the economy is petroleum, they are getting a pretty damn good price for it in external markets and I don't think it's taxed locally.

Work is fantastic. It is so great to be leading AIESEC like this, and so exciting at this stage of goal-setting and planning.

I've worked every day for the last six days, usually staying until 8 or 9pm. But that is because I really want to. I am enjoying it so much and really believe in it. And there is a lot of it! Tomorrow I was told I have a day off, and I was like, what? But I want to go to work. I want to get on with it! Which is a good sign, but a dangerous one. I think I do have to be careful to have some time off! So tomorrow I am going to climb La Avila, the mountain with the cable car (but that's cheating) towering right beside Caracas. Better get some rest first. It's been a long weekend, but everything has gone so fast this

week! I have yet to unpack.

Chao chamos!